Team Gane Matterhorn Climber

The Matterhorn is the world’s most iconic peak and needs little introduction. The summit stands at 4,478m and its perfect shape dominates the skyline. Climbing the Matterhorn is on the 'must do' list of both aspiring and experienced mountaineers alike. To stand on top of the Matterhorn is a worthy goal and a life-defining experience! At Mountain Tracks we have 20 years of experience on the mountain and a fantastic record of summit success. We offer a tried and tested six-day program which includes all the preparation and acclimatisation necessary for an attempt on this challenging summit.

Nestled on the border between Switzerland and Italy, this huge, roughly hewn rock pyramid serves as a defining landmark. The well documented first ascent is an important milestone in the history of climbing, so for most, the ascent is more than physical challenge it is also a journey of discovery.

Climbing the Matterhorn is committing, this means it is essential you have previous alpine mountaineering experience. Specifically, you are comfortable scrambling on steep rock, have good rope skills and familiarity with using crampons on steep snow and ice, both in ascent and descent. Climbing the Matterhorn is more technical than Mont Blanc, but is an achievable objective for fit climbers with a structured plan of training and acclimatisation.

The route we take is via the Hornli Ridge (AD) from Zermatt. The ascent is only moderately technical but it is a very long rock climb with some steep snow at altitude and plenty of exposure. Climbers must be very sure-footed on steep terrain and have lots of endurance. Our standard programme for climbing the Matterhorn is 6 days with 4 days of acclimatization and preparation - at a maximum guide ratio of 1:2, and 2 days for the Matterhorn ascent, which is guided on a 1:1 ratio only.

The summit day itself is long, with tricky scrambling (up to 4,500m in elevation) and requires commitment and concentration for 8+ hours. The climbing on the Matterhorn is delicate and sustained rather than difficult, so it is essential that the correct preparation has been put in place.

This itinerary is based on spending the first 4 days in the Chamonix area, which in our view offers the best terrain for preparation and acclimatisation. The itinerary is very dependent on the local weather and conditions and your guides may need to alter the programme accordingly.

Am I ready to climb the Matterhorn?

The Hornli Ridge is graded AD and has a vertical ascent of 1300m. Most of the climbing is done with boot soles on dry rock, but crampons are usually worn for the final section to the summit. All climbers attempting the peak need to be comfortable with the environment and well prepared. We advise that climbers should have previously completed a minimum of one week of alpine mountaineering, this experience could have been gained on Mont Blanc or on our Alpine Introduction course. A structured aerobic fitness program before the course starts is highly recommended, this can include hill walking, scrambling, cycling or running. Please see our preparation page for more details.

What is the standard of accommodation in the huts?

The huts are run by full-time staff that looks after us on a half-board basis, the cooking is hearty homemade food. Water, beer, wine and a picnic lunch is available at extra cost. The sleeping quarters are communal.

We proudly offer our returning customers a discount.

The promotion is valid for qualifying bookings made before the end of October 2024 (using the discount codes provided) at the checkout.

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Price for 1 person booking a private trip is £3,495
Price for group of 2 or more (maximum 6) is £2,895 per person.

The price includes all guiding fees & expenses for 6 days climbing, b&b hotel accommodation (twin room) in Chamonix; half-board accommodation in mountain huts, transport from Chamonix to Zermatt return.
The price does not include evening meals when staying in the valley, lunches & drinks, travel to and from Chamonix and uplift costs.
Single-room occupancy in valley hotels may incur an additional cost. Contact us for details.

On our Matterhorn weeks we estimate that the cost of the uplift will be in the region of £120 - £150 per person. This cost is not included and needs to be paid for locally in both Euros (when in Chamonix) and Swiss Francs (in Zermatt).

This list contains our recommended clothing and equipment for our Matterhorn Climber weeks.

In the summer months, the days generally start very cold and warm up during the morning to become hot in the afternoon. It is therefore essential that you have 2-3 thin layers that you are able to put on/take off as the conditions change. Thin layers also allow better movement as opposed to one layer of bulky clothing.

If you are uncertain or need further information, please contact us.

• Alpine Mountaineering - Clothing
  • Base Layer Top and Bottoms – a few base layer tops, usually long-sleeved is best, wool base layers form Ortovox are good as they offer good wicking properties and dry quickly. For your legs, a couple of pairs of long or ¾ length bottoms are best.

  • Mid-layer fleece tops – a couple of fleece type jacket or tops that can be worn between your base layer and outer layers. The “Layering” approach offers the best heat retention and flexibility in warm and cold weather.

  • Insulation Layer - a down or Primaloft jacket is a good item to have ready to wear in the event of cold weather, it can live in your rucksack as a spare layer and can come in very handy for sudden changes in the weather.

  • Lightweight softshell type trousers - you want to wear a lightweight softshell or similar material on your legs, these types of trouser offer good protection from snow/ice as well as abrasion on rock and are comfortable to move in.

  • Walking shorts or a pair of trousers with zip-off legs. Useful for walk-ins to huts on hot days.

  • Gore-Tex Jacket - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable jackets. Best to have a lightweight jacket that can be worn in the event of wet or windy weather but is packable enough to fit in your rucksack. Your insulated ski jacket will be overkill and too hot and bulky.

  • Gore-Tex Pants - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable trousers. Lightweight is important plus side zips for putting on over your boots and crampons. Used in cold, wet and windy weather.

  • Sun hat and warm hat – bring a wide-brimmed sun hat or baseball cap plus a warm beanie style hat.

  • Light, thin gloves – a thin pair of fleece or softshell gloves for warm weather are a must.

  • Insulated gloves - You need to have a pair of waterproof warm gloves to wear on cold days.

  • Gaiters – these are useful to wear to keep snow out of your boots.

  • Socks - 3-4 pairs of medium weight socks usually mid-calf length is good.

• Alpine Mountaineering - Boots

  There are 2 grades of boots for alpine trekking and mountaineering: B1 and B2

  • B1 boots are usually lightweight boots offering more flexibility when walking and are usually suitable only for trekking, easy glacier walking and Via Ferrata trips.

  • B2 boots are semi-rigid boots that are the best option for summer alpine mountaineering trips. There are leather and plastic/composite options. Leather boots tend to be more comfortable and breathable whereas plastic/composite boots are warmer and more waterproof.

  B2 boots are compatible with C1 and C2 crampons.

  Key features of a good alpine boot include Vibram soles, a reversed leather upper (which protect the best side of the leather from scuffing and abrasion and improves durability and water resistance) and ankle flex and a higher cut which give control, mobility and support.

  Boots can be hired in resort but to avoid discomfort we do strongly recommend that you have your own pair which needs to be well worn-in prior to your trip.

  Alpine huts supply hut slippers so that you don't need to take any other footwear apart from your boots. Boots are not allowed in the dining room or dormitories and must be left in the foyer.

• Alpine Mountaineering - Technical

  These items are essential for all alpine mountaineering courses

  All items can be hired from Mountain Tracks or from sport shops in the Alps.

  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice Axe - General mountaineering / alpine pick 55-70cms long depending on your height.
  • Boot crampons - with anti-balling plates.
  • Climbing Harness – adjustable leg loops are useful for easy of putting on over your boots.
  • Adjustable trekking pole(s)

• Alpine Mountaineering - Miscellaneous

  • Rucksack - A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of between 35-45 liters is recommended. You need to have one loop for carrying an ice axe on your rucksack.

  • Lightweight sleeping bag liner – a silk or cotton sleeping bag liner is now compulsory in all mountain huts.

  • Water bottle or Thermos – a water bottle or hydration system is needed.

  • Head torch with spare batteries

  • Penknife

  • Personal first Aid Kit - Should contain:

  Plasters – of various sizes and possibly some adhesive wound dressings.

  Pain Killers – aspirin or Paracetamol/Nurofen

  Antiseptic cream or wipes

  Blister kit – compeed and elastic tape to hold it in place (essential)!

  (Note: Guides will have comprehensive first aid kits and are qualified in mountain first aid)

  • Whistle

  • Sun Glasses - minimum category 3.

  • Ski Goggles – these can be very useful if you encounter strong winds and poor weather.

  • Sunscreen and Lip Protection

  • Ear Plugs - For noisy huts!!

  • Camera

  • Hold-all bag - for gear not required on trek. Will be left at first hotel and collected on return.

  • Passport

  • Money - You will need some cash for food and drinks. There are some ATMs and most hotels, shops and restaurants will accept credit cards, but most huts still accept cash only. You should allow about 30-40 Swiss Francs or 25-35 Euros per day for lunch and drinks (amount approximate and depends on consumption).

  • Toiletries – Should contain:

  Toothbrush and paste - a mini one is ideal

  Soap

  Anti-bacterial hand cleaner

  Wet wipes – essential to try to maintain hygiene

  Tissues and toilet roll

  Small light quick dry towel e.g. a Lifeventure Soft fiber towel

  (Any other essentials you need but remember there are no shower facilities and generally no running water in the huts and you have to carry everything with you!)

  • Alpine club card - If you're a member.

  • Book, pack of cards and or Ipod/MP3 player – It’s nice to have something to read or listen to when you are in the huts or to challenge your fellow travelers to a game of card. These items are not essential but if you have space you might appreciate them.

• Alpine Mountaineering - Hiring

  It is possible to hire boots and the technical items needed for the Mont Blanc Climber week in Chamonix and guideline prices for 6 days hire are:

  Mountaineering boots €55
  Ice Axe €30
  Boot crampons €35
  Harness €15
  Helmet €15
  
  If you wish to hire any technical kit please contact us in advance with your requirements.

The week is a physically demanding one, on the summit days you will be climbing for 9 -12 hours on varied terrain carrying a rucksack of 10-15kg.

Fitness preparation is absolutely essential and will make your week considerably more enjoyable. Participating in sports and activity that increase your aerobic fitness are key. So when preparing for this trip nothing beats activities that increase your heart rate and build your aerobic levels e.g. hill walking (with a rucksack), running, cycling and swimming.

Movement skills are also very important for this trip - agility, balance and flexibility will allow you to adjust to the ever changing terrain. The best prep you can do is to get out climbing; outdoor climbing is ideal but indoors also works. Try to climb at least once a week leading up to the start of the week. Scrambling in the British hills is also excellent preparation; try to include a few long days with a rucksack.

• Insurance

  It is a condition of booking that you are insured for your chosen activity and the cover must include medical expenses, personal accident, personal liability, third party risks and rescue (including helicopter rescue). You are strongly advised also to take out cover against cancellation and curtailment.

  For UK residents Ski Club Travel Insurance may be a suitable option.

  For more details and to purchase a policy online visit http://www.skiclubinsurance.co.uk/
  If you need assistance arranging your personal insurance please let us know.
   

• Alpine Mountaineering - Guides

  All our mountaineering trips are run by our team of IFMGA Mountain Guides. 

• Group Size

  For our Matterhorn weeks the first 4 training days are guided on a 1:2 basis, the summit 2 days are guided on a 1:1 basis only.

• Alpine Climate

  The Alps generally have a very pleasant climate throughout the spring, summer and autumn with warm days and cool nights, with daytime temperatures in the valley around 25 - 30°C. At high altitude the temperature often goes down below -10 and can feel even colder with wind chill.