This trip should appeal to the aspiring mountaineer and anyone who wants to challenge themselves and learn plenty of new skills across the week. If you have climbed Mont Blanc or the Monterosa before but maybe feel the Matterhorn is a bit of a stretch then this trip is for you.
In the shadow of the Matterhorn and with distance views to Grand Combin and Mont Blanc this is surly one of the great mountaineering circuits to complete.
We can offer this trip on a guiding ratio of 1:2 where ten 4000m can be climbed over six days. We can add an additional 2-3 peaks on a ratio of 1:1 due to the more technical and exposed nature of these ones (see * and notes below).
With 5 nights in comfortable mountain huts most on the Italian side of the massif, hence the Spaghetti Tour analogy!
Arrive in Zermatt, check-in to the hotel, meet the guide for our welcome meeting and overnight in the hotel.
Take the Klein Matterhorn cable car and make an ascent of the Breithorn (4164m) via Breithorn West and Breithorn Central, a great traverse of the mountain with some fine mixed climbing. We overnight in the Guide d'Ayas hut.
From the Guide d'Ayas hut we climb back up to ascend Pollux (4092m) typically via its SW ridge; followed by an ascent of Castor (4228m) also via its SW ridge. From here we overnight in the Quintino Sella Hut.
On leaving the hut we aim to climb Ill Naso del Lyskamm (4272m), the route is graded PD and involves a steep section of snow/ice on the West Face. If conditions are good we can continue and make a traverse of Lyskamm* (4,527m) from West to East, this provides a fine climb graded AD with a narrow exposed ridge. From here we descend to the Rifugio Gnifetti where we overnight.
From the Rifugio Gnifetti we climb to Piramide Vincent (4,215m), a relatively straight forward snow ascent from the Rifugio. From here we make a traverse to Corno Nero (Schwarzhorn) at 4,321m, Ludwigshohe 4,341m and finally Parrotspitze 4,432m. A great traverse linking all the peaks, it's not especially difficult but the sustained altitude will make the going tough! From here we head to the Margharita hut, perched at 4,554m the highest refuge in Europe, where you overnight.
From the Margharita hut climb we Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe) 4,554 only a short distance from the hut. We continue onwards to Punta Zumstein* (4,563m) and in good conditions we can do a traverse of the Dufourspitze* 4,634m. This is a narrow ridge where a head for heights is essential and a fine end to the weeks climbing. From here we descend to the Monterosa hut where we spend the night.
Descend from the Monterosa Hut to Zermatt, overnight in the hotel.
Depart after breakfast.
Traverse of Lyskamm and Zumsteinspitze - Dufourspitze can only be guided on a 1:1 ratio, we can provide the majority of the above itinerary on a 1:2 ratio but for these 3 peaks a 1:1 ratio is mandatory. Therefore for parties of 1:2 on this itinerary the guide would adjust to the route to take this into account.
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- Sat 22 Jun
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- Sat 29 Jun
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- Sat 13 Jul
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- Sat 27 Jul
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- Sat 24 Aug
The price includes 6 guided days with all guides expenses, 7 nights' accommodation of which 2 are in a hotel on B&B, twin room sharing and 5 are in mountain huts on HB.
The price does not include flights, airport transfers, 2 evening meals, lunches and drinks, uplift costs, equipment hire and personal insurance.
This is based on the 1:2 guide to client ratio. If you are interested in the 1:1 option to include the other peaks please contact our office to discuss.
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• Base Layer Top and Bottoms – a few base layer tops, usually long sleeved is best, wool base layers form Smartwool or Icebreaker are good as they offer good wicking properties and dry quickly. For your legs a couple of pairs of long or ¾ length bottoms are best.
• Mid-layer fleece tops – a couple of fleece type jacket or tops that can be worn between your base layer and outer layers. The “Layering” approach offers the best heat retention and flexibility in warm and cold weather.
• Insulation Layer - a down or primalotf jacket is a good item to have ready to wear in the event of cold weather, it can live in your rucksack as a spare layer and can come in very handy for sudden changes in the weather.
• Lightweight softshell type trousers - you want to wear a lightweight softshell or similar material on your legs, these types of trouser offer good protection from snow/ice as well as abrasion on rock and are comfortable to move in.
• Walking shorts or pair of trousers with zip-off legs. Useful for walk-ins to huts on hot days.
• Gore-Tex Jacket - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable jacket. Best to have a lightweight jacket that can be worn in the event of wet or windy weather but is packable enough to fit in your rucksack. Your insulated ski jacket will be overkill and too hot and bulky.
• Gore-Tex Pants - Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable trousers. Lightweight is important plus side zips for putting on over your boots and crampons. Used in cold, wet and windy weather.
• Sun hat and warm hat – bring a wide-brimmed sun hat or baseball cap plus a warm beanie style hat.
• Light, thin gloves – a thin pair of fleece or softshell gloves for warm weather are a must.
• Insulated gloves - You need to have a pair of waterproof warm gloves to wear on cold days.
• Gaiters – these are useful to wear to keep snow out of your boots.
• Socks - 3-4 pairs of medium weight socks usually mid-calf length is good.
These items are essential for all alpine mountaineering courses
All items can be hired from Mountain Tracks or from sport shops in the Alps.
• Climbing helmet
• Ice Axe - General mountaineering / alpine pick 55-70cms long depending on your height.
• Boot crampons - with anti-balling plates.
• Climbing Harness – adjustable leg loops are useful for easy of putting on over your boots.
• Adjustable trekking pole(s)
There are 2 grades of boots for alpine trekking and mountaineering: B1 and B2
• B1 boots are usually lightweight boots offering more flexibility when walking and are usually suitable only for trekking, easy glacier walking and Via Ferrata trips.
• B2 boots are semi-rigid boots that are the best option for summer alpine mountaineering trips. There are leather and plastic/composite options. Leather boots tend to be more comfortable and breathable whereas plastic/composite boots are warmer and more waterproof.
B2 boots are compatible with C1 and C2 crampons.
Key features of a good alpine boot include Vibram soles, a reversed leather upper (which protect the best side of the leather from scuffing and abrasion and improves durability and water resistance) and ankle flex and a higher cut which give control, mobility and support.
Boots can be hired in resort but to avoid discomfort we do strongly recommend that you have your own pair which needs to be well worn-in prior to your trip.
Alpine huts supply hut slippers so that you don't need to take any other footwear apart from your boots. Boots are not allowed in the dining room or dormitories and must be left in the foyer.
• Rucksack - A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of between 35-45 liters is recommended. You need to have one loop for carrying an ice axe on your rucksack.
• Lightweight sleeping bag liner – a silk or cotton sleeping bag liner is now compulsory in all mountain huts.
• Water bottle or Thermos – a water bottle or hydration system is needed.
• Head torch with spare batteries
• Personal first Aid Kit - Should contain:
Plasters – of various sizes and possibly some adhesive wound dressings.
Pain Killers – aspirin or Paracetamol/Nurofen
Antiseptic cream or wipes
Blister kit – compeed and elastic tape to hold it in place (essential)!
(Note: Guides will have comprehensive first aid kits and are qualified in mountain first aid)
• Sun Glasses - minimum category 3.
• Ski Goggles – these can be very useful if you encounter strong winds and poor weather.
• Sunscreen and Lip Protection
• Ear Plugs - For noisy huts!!
• Hold-all bag - for gear not required on trek. Will be left at first hotel and collected on return.
• Money - You will need some cash for food and drinks. There are some ATMs and most hotels, shops and restaurants will accept credit cards, but most huts still accept cash only. You should allow about 30-40 Swiss Francs or 25-35 Euros per day for lunch and drinks (amount approximate and depends on consumption).
• Toiletries – Should contain:
Toothbrush and paste - a mini one is ideal
Anti-bacterial hand cleaner
Wet wipes – essential to try to maintain hygiene
Tissues and toilet roll
Small light quick dry towel e.g. a Lifeventure Soft fiber towel
(Any other essentials you need but remember there are no shower facilities and generally no running water in the huts and you have to carry everything with you!)
• Alpine club card - If you're a member.
• Book, pack of cards and or Ipod/MP3 player – It’s nice to have something to read or listen to when you are in the huts or to challenge your fellow travelers to a game of card. These items are not essential but if you have space you might appreciate them.
It is possible to hire boots and the technical items needed for the Mont Blanc Climber week in Chamonix and guideline prices for 6 days hire are:
Mountaineering boots €55
Ice Axe €30
Boot crampons €35
If you wish to hire any technical kit please contact us in advance with your requirements.
It is a condition of booking that you are insured for your chosen activity and the cover must include medical expenses, personal accident, personal liability, third party risks and rescue (including helicopter rescue). You are strongly advised also to take out cover against cancellation and curtailment.
For more details and to purchase a policy online visit http://www.skiclubinsurance.co.uk/
If you need assistance arranging your personal insurance please let us know.
You want to arrange to arrive in Zermatt by mid-afternoon on the first day, we will have a welcome meeting at the hotel around 7pm with our guide.
We suggest you take the train from either Geneva or Zurich airports, you can look up train timetables at www.sbb.ch/en
All our mountaineering trips are run by our team of IFMGA Mountain Guides. The team is led by Olly Allen, Matt Dickinson and Nick Parks.
You will stay 2 nights in our preffered hotel in Zermatt, usually the Hotel Tannenhof on a bed & breakfast basis; this is one night at the start of the week and one night at the end.
You have 5 nights in mountain hut accommodation on a half board basis.
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV
The IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV symbol is the logo of the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association.
Nick, Olly and Matt are all fully-qualified UIAGM Mountain Guides and members of the British Mountain Guides Association.
The International Ski Instructors Association is the world body for professional ski instructors.
The ISIA was formed in 1971 and there are currently 39 member nations representing the very best in ski instruction around the world.