Alpine Rock

Learn more about Alpine Mountaineering

Alpine rock climbing takes many forms, from bolt-protected 'crag' climbs to high mountain faces and towering ridges. The Alps has an abundance of long, spectacular and famous climbs.

Alpine Rock
Quick Info
Skill Level:2
Stamina Level:1
Download: Trip Fact Sheet
Find out more: Trip Fact Sheet
Dates Accommodation Price Availability
Alpine Rock Sat 13 Jul 13 -
Fri 19 Jul 13
6 nights
£1,545

Course Objectives

This course has two aims: Firstly to enhance your existing climbing skills and secondly to enjoy high-quality, classic alpine rock routes. Lead climbing skills are covered within the course.

We begin in the Aiguille Rouge, a classic mountain playground with fantastic views of the Mont Blanc massif. We then move up to a high mountain area of the Chamonix Aiguilles and West face of Mont Blanc du Tacul and climb on the orange granite towers for which the area is famous.

This course will suit people who rock climb fairly regularly (either indoor or outdoor), who can follow at least grade V (VS) in rock shoes and who are confident of their climbing fitness. It is essential that you bring comfortable rock shoes suitable for long multi-pitch routes. You will also need lightweight approach shoes and mountain boots.

Previous alpine climbing experience is not necessary, but experience of rock climbing in mountain boots, carrying a rucksack, is useful. We climb on a low 1:2 guiding ratio, which enables us to match your experience, climbing grade and fitness - and to challenge you on routes at the right level of difficulty.

Examples of Routes

  • Miroir d'Argentine, Villars, Switzerland III
  • Chapelle de Gliere, Aiguille Rouge IV
  • Papillons Arête, North Face of Peigne VI+
  • Frison-Roche, Brevant, Aiguille Rouge V+
  • South face of the Aiguille du Midi V+
  • Asia, south Face of the Floria, Aiguille Rouge. V+

Duration of Course

5 days climbing with 6 nights accommodation

Accommodation

A mix of valley based chalet or hotel accommodation on B&B basis and nights spent in high mountain huts with breakfast and evening meals.

Insurance

It is a condition of booking that you are insured for your chosen activity and that the cover includes medical expenses, personal accident, personal liability, third party risks and rescue (including helicopter rescue). You are strongly advised also to take out cover against cancellation and curtailment. We recommend www.snowcard.co.uk. They specialise in travel insurance for all adventure sports and travel and they offer competitive rates for both single trip and annual policies.

Skill Level Overview

Introductory

I have no previous experience mountaineering experience but I am keen to learn the basics of using crampons and an ice axe and rope work. I would enjoy ascending rocky scrambles and easy angled snow and ice. For Via Ferrata trips a head for heights and some upper body strength is useful.

Intermediate

I have undertaken some previous rocky scrambling, ice or easy alpine climbing. I am comfortable moving on rocky and snowy ridges and slopes of up to 40 degrees. I enjoy the challenge of more remote technical terrain. I would like to learn more about alpine rope work. I can improve my crampon / ice axe technique and could scramble on rock with greater efficiency.

Advanced (this trip)

I have previous experience climbing alpine PD+ or harder. I am undeterred by scrambling and have done some pitched climbing on rock or ice. I have a firm grasp of the rope techniques necessary for pitched climbing and crossing glaciers. I am confident when using crampons and ice axe. I relish the thought of climbing steep rock and ice or traversing an exposed ridge covered in snow and ice. I can abseil, know how to use a prussic knot and make myself safe on basic belay stances.

Stamina Level Overview

Level 1

I have good hill walking fitness and endurance. I enjoy walking for at least 5 hours on undulating terrain at a steady pace. I can ascend 500m in height per day. This stamina level can be achieved by regular walking in the UK, cycling, jogging or swimming.

Level 2 (this trip)

I have good aerobic fitness and leg strength. I can trek up steep, rocky paths and ascend up to 800m in a day. I enjoy being on the hill for up to 7 hours a day, and can cope with moderate altitudes above 3000m. To prepare for this trip the best activities are those that increase your heart rate and build your aerobic levels e.g. running, cycling and swimming. For via ferrata trips a moderate amount of upper body strength would be helpful, gained ideally through scrambling or lifting light weights.

Level 3

I have excellent cardiovascular fitness and plenty of endurance to cope with several demanding days in a row. I can climb 5-6 hours most days, and on summit days up to 10-12 hours. I have enough upper body strength to pull myself up short sections of fixed rope or ladders. Endurance fitness is gained through longer training periods of walking, running, cycling and swimming. These climbs can be strenuous with the need for upper body strength gained through, gym sessions, scrambling or in/outdoor rock climbing.

Level 4

I have a supreme level of fitness and stamina. I can move confidently on technical terrain for 10-15 hours at altitude. I have a strong upper body to tackle fixed ropes, vertical rock and ice. A prolonged period of cross training would help build endurance with 3 training sessions per week of at least 2 hours including walking, running, swimming and cycling. Upper body strength is essential for pitched ice and rock climbing and this can be gained from weight training or indoor climbing walls.

General Information

This list contains our recommended clothing and equipment for our multi-day alpine mountaineering trips. In the summer months, the days generally start very cold and warm up during the morning to become hot in the afternoon. It is therefore essential that you have 2-3 thin layers that you are able to put on/take off as the conditions change. Thin layers also allow better movement as opposed to one layer of bulky clothing. If you are uncertain or need further information, please contact us.

Clothing

  • Base Layer Top and Bottoms

    1-2 thermal tops and 1 pair longjohns

  • 2 midweight fleece tops or 1 fleece and 1 lightweight duvet jacket
  • Lightweight trekking trousers
  • Walking shorts or pair of trousers with zip-off legs
  • Weather Layer Top

    Gore-Tex or other waterproof breathable jacket

  • Lightweight over-trousers with long side zips
  • Sun hat and warm hat
  • Light, thin gloves
  • Insulated gloves or mitts
  • Gaiters

    Good fitting pair of ankle gaiters to keep socks and boots dry

  • 3-4 pairs of good quality socks

Boots

For the alpine mountaineering trips you need a good B2 or B3 rated boot.
B2 boots are the best option for most alpine mountaineering trips. These are semi-rigid boots available in either leather or plastic/composite options. Leather boots tend to be more comfortable and breathable whereas plastic/composite boots are warmer and more waterproof. They are compatible with C1 and C2 crampons.
B3 boots are fully-rigid ice-climbing and mountaineering boots that are compatible with C1, C2 and C3 crampons. These should only be considered for ice-climbing or mountaineering trips to the Greater Ranges.
Key features of a good alpine mountaineering boot include vibram soles, a reversed leather upper (which protect the best side of the leather from scuffing and abrasion and improves durability and water resistance) and ankle flex and a higher cut which give control, mobility and support.
Boots can be hired in resort but to avoid discomfort it is strongly recommended that you have your own pair which need to be worn-in.
Alpine huts supply hut slippers so that you don't need to take any other footwear apart from your boots. Boots are not allowed in the dining room or dormitories and must be left in the foyer.

Technical

These items are essential for all alpine mountaineering courses All items can be hired from Mountain Tracks or from sport shops in the Alps. These items cost about £35-£45 each for 6-8 days hire payable in local currency in resort.

  • Ice Axe

    general mountaineering axe – 55-70cms long depending on your height

  • Boot crampons

    with anti-balling plates

  • Climbing Harness

    adjustable and with leg loops. Must be large enough to be worn over your outerwear

  • 2 Prussik loops, slings and karabiners

Miscellaneous

  • Pack

    A simple and lightweight pack with a capacity of between 35-45 liters

  • Lightweight sheet sleeping bag/silk liner

    now compulsory in most alpine mountain huts

  • Water bottle (at least 1 liter) or Thermos
  • Head lamp with batteries

    a Petzl Zipka or similar LED torch

  • Penknife
  • Personal medications and first aid kit

    For blisters, sunburn and headaches (Note: Guides will have comprehensive first aid kits and are qualified in mountain first aid)

  • Adjustable trekking pole(s)
  • Sun Glasses

    minimum category 3 for high altitude

  • Sunscreen and Lip Protection
  • Snack food

    fruit or crunchy bars are better than chocolate as a rule. Biscuits to take with afternoon tea are good too

  • Brew kit

    it’s cheaper to buy hot water in huts and add your own tea bags, coffee, hot chocolate, etc

  • Duffel bag

    for gear not required on trek. Will be left at first hotel and collected on return

  • Passport
  • Money

    You will need some cash for food and drinks. There are ATMs in the towns plus most hotels, shops and restaurants will accept credit cards. Huts are also increasingly able to accept credit cards but many still only take cash. (Euros or Swiss Francs depending on the trip)

  • Small wash kit

    with quick drying towel

  • Alpine club card

    If you're a member

  • Book, diary, pen, playing cards

    for afternoons/evenings in the huts

Chamonix, France

The town of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is situated at 1042m (3,396 ft) above sea level. It sits at the foot of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe at 4807m (15,770 ft).

Chamonix is considered by many as Europe's mecca for outdoor sports and draws many enthusiasts from all over the world.

Unlike many of the purpose built resorts, Chamonix is a proper working town with a large population of about 12,000 inhabitants. This number can be boosted by as many as 80 - 100,000 during the peak months in summer and winter.

As befits a town of this size there are plenty of shops, hotels, cafes, bars, pubs and nightclubs.

Our top reasons to visit Chamonix:

  • Home of the Vallée Blanche, one of the world’s great off-piste descents
  • Great destination for weekends and short breaks
  • Easy access from the UK and just 75 minutes by road from Geneva airport, which has regular flights from many UK airports
  • Thriving, working town full of shops, bars and restaurants = good shopping, good après-ski
  • The Alpine capital of France renowned for big mountain skiing, alpinism and extreme adventure
  • Mont Blanc – the highest peak in Western Europe
  • Very long ski season with skiing possible until well into May
  • Good range of accommodation for all budgets

Chamonix Ski Area

The skiing area of Chamonix is generally considered to have some of the best off-piste skiing in the world. Much of this is accessible from the lift systems and includes descents of over 2,000m.

The Chamonix valley extends over 20km and there are several separate lift systems and mountains which provide enormous variety and all are included on the Mont Blanc pass.

Numerous options including:

The Vallée Blanche
The longest off-piste ski descent in the world (24kms).

Pas de Chevre
Ascend to the top of Grand Montets and ski down to the Mer de Glace and on into Chamonix.

Glacier du Toule
You can ski the Glacier du Toule down towards Courmayeur and then catch the cable car back up to the top of the mountain and ski the Italian side of the Vallée Blanche.

Le Tour
From the back of the Le Tour lift system there is fantastic off-piste skiing towards Vallorcine and Switzerland.

Some of the very best areas can only be reached with an hour's walk from the pistes. The effort expended is more than rewarded with the awesome skiing across untracked terrain.

In addition there are some great new heli-skiing opportunities available in Italy just through the Mont Blanc tunnel, only 20 minutes away from the town. These drops are not included in the price - ask us for more details.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Chamonix from the UK is to fly. The nearest airport is Geneva and the transfer time from the airport is about 75 minutes to Chamonix.
Easyjet tend to have the most affordable flights and a comprehensive service that serves many UK regional airports including Bristol, Belfast, Bournemouth, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Luton, Gatwick, Liverpool, Nottingham/East Midlands.

Most chalet operators offer inclusive airport transfers from Geneva airport to Chamonix.

More about Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Western Europe. Its height is 4,807 metres (15,780 feet), but varies from year to year by a few metres, depending on snowfall and climate conditions. The mountain lies at 45°55′N, 6°55′E between the regions of Haute Savoie, France and Aosta Valley, Italy

The first known ascent was made on August 8, 1786 by Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard.

Contact

250 York Road, London
SW11 3SJ, United Kingdom
info@mountaintracks.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0)20 8123 2978
Fax: +44 (0)20 7905 0921

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