Available trips
| Sat 21st Aug 10
- Sat 28th Aug 10 |
8 Days |
| Guide TBC | £ 1895 |
| Book Now | |
Skill: ****
These are very challenging alpine climbs and suitable for experienced mountaineers only, confident moving unroped on snow
slopes up to 50° and well versed in crevasse rescue.
You must be in excellent physical condition, able to cope with full days out on the hill carrying a 10-15kg pack.
Previous experience of glacier travel and the use of crampons and ice axe is essential. We will send you our recommended
training schedule which should help you with your preparation and training for this trip.
Extreme altitude, weather and other hazards can make high-altitude climbing risky. If you are uncertain about your ability to cope with these extremes, seek our advice before booking
Stamina: ***
All mountain adventures - whether skiing, climbing or trekking - are physical recreational activities where it is really
true that "the fitter you are, the more you'll enjoy them".
For climbing, aerobic fitness and leg strength are the key. Upper body strength and core stability are also important for
more technical climbing, nothing beats activities that increase your heart rate and build your aerobic levels and regular hill
walking in the UK or abroad - is strongly recommended in the build-up to the trip.
Movement skills - agility, balance, flexibility - which allow you to walk easily over rough ground, to scramble using hands and feet on exposed terrain or to make your way safely up a steep snow slope - are also very relevant and can be enhanced through specific aerobic activity and training drills.
The central Alpine areas offer an abundance of world class objectives for the aspiring technical mountaineer. From the Mont
Blanc Massif, through Arolla, Zinal and the Valais Alps, this is where mountaineering was born.
The focus of this 5 (or 6) day course is to undertake classic, moderately technical routes on the highest peaks of the Alps.
Itinerary
Typically the climbs will be graded PD+, AD, AD+ and possibly D. The climbing takes place on multi-pitched routes on snow,
ice and rock.
We begin the week in the Mont Blanc massif and maintain a flexible approach. The client/guide ratio is either 1:1 or 1:2.
This course has a duel objective. Firstly to climb as many technical summits that conditions allow, secondly to become
proficient with the skills of technical mountaineering.
COURSE ELEMENTS INCLUDE
Crevasse rescue and glacier safety
Ice, mixed and rock climbing
Anchors and stance management
Route selection and navigation
Leading and short roping
Use of technical axes and good front point technique on steeper ice pitches.
Multiple abseil descents.
SAMPLE ITINERARY
Please note, the typical itinerary below is based on 5 days climbing. 6 day courses are also available. Also, this is
purely an illustration of what is possible, we frequently use a multitude of different routes depending on the local conditions
and climbers ability.
Day 1
The course begins on Sunday evening with a welcome meeting and course briefing. The briefing covers all essential
information for the following days. There is an equipment check and a slideshow.
Day 2
The first day is spent climbing multi-pitch rock routes in the Aiguilles Rouge Massif. This is a spectacular and
beautiful venue for us to review and build skills. We pay particular attention to stance management, rappels, movement and
rope-work. Overnight back in the valley.
Day 3
The Arête des Cosmiques. This famous route takes us to the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. There are incredible views of
Mont Blanc and the climbing is varied, with sections on both rock, snow and ice. We are able to climb this high mountain route
in a day by using the Aiguille du Midi Cable car. Overnight in the valley.
Day 4
We spend the morning on multi pitch climbs on the rock slabs of Vallorcine before heading through the Mont Blanc Tunnel
to the Italian side of Mont Blanc and ascend by cable car to the Torino Refuge 3315m
Day 5
Ascent of the Tour Ronde 3798m. This impressive peak stands over the Brenva and Geant glaciers with the Italian Mont
Blanc face (east face) in front. An early alpine start is essential, to ensure good snow conditions. After a glacial approach,
an elegant and technical rock ridge leads to the summit. Over night in the Torino refuge.
Day 6
Ascent of the Dent du Geant. After a 3am start we begin with a glacier crossing before the route meanders up mixed ground
for 500m to the foot of the Dent, this section is sometimes climbed with a crampons and an axe, sometimes without, depending on
conditions. The Dent itself is very steep and exhilarating, some of the time on fixed ropes. There is a relatively quick rappel
descent off the summit, and then a strenuous descent back to the Torino refuge. Over night back in the Chamonix valley.
Day 7
Course ends. Breakfast is provided before climbers leave the course.
POSSIBLE OBJECTIVES
Listed here are just a few of the vast number of possible objectives. We keep the course flexible, to maximise your
chances of summit success.
Breithorn (4164m)
The Traverse of the Breithorn is graded AD. The route involves snow, rock and ice and is very exposed. Amazing views of
the Matterhorn.
Obergabelhorn (4063m)
Via the Arbengrat (AD) a classic rock ridge, or by the NE ridge (AD-) a mostly snow and ice route with its crux section
at the Grand Gendarme.
Zinalrothorn (4221m)
One of the great mountains of Zermatt. The best route is the classic SE ridge (AD-)
Dent Blanche (4357m)
Another of the great mountains of the Valais. We climb via the South Ridge (AD). Varied climbing with challenging
sections on snow, ice and rock.
Dent d'Herens (4171m)
Situated in a breathtaking position next to the Matterhorn. We climb the West Ridge (AD) from the Aosta hut. Again, a
varied climb on snow, ice and rock.
Rimpfischhorn (4,198m)
Rimpfisch in German means ‘stickleback’. The ordinary route (PD+). is a climbed mainly on snow, but has a final rocky
section to obtain the summit.
Allalinhorn (4,027m)
We traverse this peak via the Hohlaubgrat. (AD). A long and exposed ridge of snow leads to a steep rock step before the
summit
Additional Information
Dates & Duration
Other dates are available on request for private groups from mid-June until late September.
2010 Prices
£1,895 per person for party of 2
£3,200 for party of 1
The price includes all guiding fees & expenses, b&b hotel accommodation (twin room); half-board accommodation in
mountain huts
The price does not include: Evening meals when staying in the valley, lunches, personal insurance, equipment hire, travel
to and from Saas Grund, local transfers and uplift costs.
Single-room occupancy in valley hotels may incur an additional cost.
Local Transfers and Uplift Costs
On our Technical Alpinism courses we estimate that the cost for local transfers and uplifts will be in the region of
£80-100 per person which is not included in the price and needs to be paid for locally in Euros and/or Swiss Francs.
Group Sizes
Our technical Alpinism courses are always guided on a maximum ratio of 1:2 with some climbs on a 1:1 ratio.
Accommodation and meals
For this week we use a mix of valley hotels and high alpine huts.
In the huts evening meals are included and are generally nourishing and plentiful. Vegetarians can be catered for in most
huts although there is usually only 1 menu option.
Climate
The Alps generally has a very pleasant climate throughout the spring, summer and autumn with warm days and cool nights,
with daytime temperatures in the valley around 24 - 28°C. At high altitude the temperature often goes down below -10 and can
feel even colder with wind chill.
Equipment
Please see our recommended
climbing kit list. Some technical equipment can be hired from Mountain Tracks.
Please contact us for details.
Your guides
All our climbing trips are led by fully qualified IFGMA mountain guides with extensive knowledge of the regions. The
groups are kept small so you benefit from their knowledge and expertise and get inspired by their enthusiasm.
The IFMGA qualification is the highest award for professional mountaineers and is the only qualification for working in
the Alps as a guide.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to St Gervais from the UK is to fly. The nearest airport is Geneva and the transfer time from the
airport is about 75 minutes.
Easyjet tend to have the most affordable flights and a comprehensive service that serves many UK regional airports
including Bristol, Belfast, Bournemouth, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Luton, Gatwick, Liverpool, Nottingham/East Midlands and Sheffield.
Check
www.easyjet.com for more details.
Insurance
It is a condition of booking that you are insured for alpine mountaineering covering personal accident, rescue and third
party risks. You are strongly advised also to take out cover against cancellation and curtailment.
If you are looking to purchase insurance for your trip we recommend
SNOWCARD. They specialise in travel insurance for adventure sports particularly skiing
and snowboarding. Their rates for both single trip and annual policies are very competitive.
For details on their policies and to get a quote
CLICK HERE or contact our office
for further details.